This blog post was original written in 2018. I have updated it slightly.
The ability to identify 2-section and 3-section 20ss chaton settings, commonly known by collectors as Figure 8s, is one of the most valuable clues when determining whether a piece of jewelry was made by Juliana (DeLizza & Elster). The ability torecognizing these distinctive settings is an important skill that every collector should develop.
Let's be clear: the Juliana characteristic is the Figure 8 chaton setting, not "puddling." The term Figure 8 refers to the distinctive 2-section and 3-section 20ss chaton settings used by DeLizza & Elster. It does not refer to sloppy solder on the back of a piece. If I ran the world, I would delete the word Figure 8 Puddling from everyone vocabulary, but last a checked I don't run the world.
In this article, you'll learn what Figure 8s are, why DeLizza & Elster began using them, and how to recognize them on vintage jewelry.
Before we look at how to identify Figure 8s, it's helpful to understand why they were created.
In his book, Mr. Frank DeLizza explained their origin on page 31:
"In 1955, my father had J.I. Manufacturing make us a two-section 20ss setting and a three-section 20ss setting, straight and curved. This had two advantages: first, you did not have to solder those settings together, and second, the girls could set the stones faster in the multiple settings than in the single settings."
This innovation not only streamlined production but also created one of the construction characteristics that collectors still look for today when studying Juliana jewelry.
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| Close up of the front of a 3 chaton setting. Notice how the prongs sort of look like fangs unlike regular chatons settings. |
How to Identify Figure 8s
Now that we know what Figure 8s really are, let's take a closer look at the photos.
The key to identifying Figure 8s is the arrangement of the prongs that hold the rhinestones in place. Unlike a traditional chaton setting, where the prongs are spaced evenly around the stone, Figure 8 settings have the prongs positioned primarily along the sides of the rhinestone. This distinctive placement gives the setting its characteristic appearance when viewed from the side. Some people like to call them "fangs".
You'll also notice that some Figure 8 settings have three prongs instead of four. If the section is curved then there are 3 prongs and 4 prongs for straight sections.
When identifying Figure 8s, two characteristics must be present:
- The 20ss rhinestone size.
- The distinctive 2-section or 3-section chaton setting with its characteristic side-prong arrangement.
Both characteristics are essential. If either one is missing, then the setting is not considered a Figure 8.
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| Front of 2 section chaton straight settings all around the edge of the brooch If it is a straight section of figure 8's all have 4 prongs. |
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| Back of 2 section chaton straight settings all around the edge of the brooch If it is a straight section of figure 8's all have 4 prongs. |
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| Front: 3 section curved chaton settings If it is a curved section the center chaton has 3 prongs. |
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| Back: 3 section curved chaton settings If it is a curved section the center chaton has 3 prongs. |
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. Yes it does have fang prongs on the front. However notice the size is wrong, These are not 20ss chatons. These chatons are 12ss. So size is very important. If not 20ss, not matter how they look, they are not D&E 2 or 3 section chaton settings. |
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. Yes it does have fang prongs on the front. However notice the size is wrong, These are not 20ss chatons. Also notice the bottom of the setting is pointed not flat. |
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. There are setting that sort of look like figure 8's on the back but on the front they are multi-pronged. |
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. Yes the back looks sloppy like figure 8's but there are no fangs on the front, and I have never see a figure 8 done with a pearl. Also the pearls are the wrong size. SummaryLet's summarize what we've learned about 2-section and 3-section 20ss chaton settings, commonly known by collectors as Figure 8s. One of the most common misconceptions is that any sloppy soldering on the back of a piece is "Figure 8 puddling" and therefore identifies it as Juliana jewelry. This is simply not true. Sloppy soldering is not a Juliana characteristic. A true Figure 8 refers specifically to a 2-section or 3-section 20ss chaton setting. The term has nothing to do with solder on the back of the jewelry. When identifying Figure 8s, remember these four key points:
Understanding these characteristics will help you recognize one of the most useful construction features found on many Juliana pieces. As with all Juliana identification characteristics, Figure 8s should be used together with other construction features when determining whether a piece was made by DeLizza & Elster. I hope you enjoyed learning about the different Figure 8 constructions used in Juliana (D&E) jewelry. Understanding these details is one of the best ways to recognize authentic Juliana pieces and appreciate the craftsmanship behind them. Be sure to check back next week, when we'll take a closer look at the issue of restoned Juliana.Join the ConversationI'd love to hear your thoughts! All discussion for The Juliana Collector takes place in my Facebook group, where collectors and enthusiasts share photos, ask questions, exchange knowledge, and discuss the topics featured in each blog post. Whether you're just beginning your Juliana journey or have been collecting for years, you're warmly invited to join the conversation. I look forward to seeing you there! Join the Facebook group here: Our Vintage Rose Jewelry Facebook Group |